The best markets to visit

If you want to know what a region eats, go to the market. On the Costa Blanca there are two kinds: the covered market halls where Spaniards buy their fish and vegetables daily, and the weekly markets that visit a different town every morning. Both are worth it, for different reasons.

Mercado Central, Alicante

The mother of all market halls in the region. In the monumental building on Avenida Alfonso X El Sabio, dozens of stalls sell fish from the local harbour, ham on the bone, olives by the scoop and vegetables from the fields inland. Come for the atmosphere around ten, when the hall is at its busiest. Downstairs at the fish hall you will see species you never meet at home; the sellers gladly explain what to do with them.

The market halls in the resorts

Dénia, Calpe and Villajoyosa each have their own mercado municipal too, smaller but with the same formula: fish from the local auction, stalls run by families who have stood there for generations. In Dénia that includes the famous red prawn. If you cook in your holiday home, you do better business here than in the supermarket.

The weekly markets

• Thursday, Jávea: big weekly market near the old centre, from fruit and vegetables to clothing and baskets.
• Saturday, Jalón: flea market along the dry riverbed. Antiques, curiosities and plenty of second-hand; popular with expats and Spaniards alike. Combine it with a visit to the village wine cooperative.
• Sunday, Benidorm: the big rastro at El Cisne, on the road towards Altea. More trinkets than local produce, but an outing in itself.

How to do it well

Go early: around noon the stalls pack up and the best is gone. Bring cash, as many stalls do not take cards. And taste what you are offered; a seller handing you a slice of melon does so because the product is the sales pitch. Hungry from all that tasting? After reading our paella guide you will know exactly where to sit down.

About the authorMilo Schuijt

Milo Schuijt is an entrepreneur and DJ on the Costa Blanca. He writes about the places where he lives, works and plays: from beach bars to the housing market.